São Miguel Island in Portugal’s Volcanic Azores

São Miguel, the largest island in the Azores, is a place of contrasts—here, volcanic landscapes meet lush green hills, and ocean breezes carry the scent of rich pastures and salt air. Our visit was a whirlwind of natural wonders, great food, and unexpected moments, beginning in Ponta Delgada.

Hot Springs, Hidden Views, and Culinary Delights

Before returning to mainland Portugal with our friends Jeff and Vanessa, we all continued our Azorean adventures, arriving from Faial Island after exploring Jeff’s heritage on Pico Island, stopping for a few days in Ponta Delgada on São Miguel Island. From there we covered most of the island west to east, from twin crater lakes of Sete Cidades to the fumaroles and hot springs of Furnas, along the northern cliffs to Ribeira Grande, and finally to the southern coastline islet of Vila Franca do Campo.

quintessential Azorean black-and-white parish square of Ribeira Grande Matriz

First Impressions: Ponta Delgada to Sete Cidades

True to the Azores Islands, patterned black and white stone pavers of Ponta Delgada give the city its distinct Azorean character, as do the historic buildings with their dark basalt and whitewashed facades. We settled in, wasting no time to check out the local restaurant scene for lunch at Louvre Micalense where we sampled fresh seafood, ravioli, and steak tartare.

Lagoa Azul in Sete Cidades

That afternoon, we headed to Sete Cidades, hoping for the famous view of the caldera from above. Despite the sunny day, nature had other plans—thick fog entirely obscured the panoramic vista. Instead of scenery from above, we dropped through the clouds to the canal roadway separating its green and blue twin lakes surrounded by the vertical slopes of the caldera’s interior.

After strolling the town’s church gardens, we found ourselves in a cozy pub, sipping a beer and watching Benfica take on Atletico Madrid in a Champions League match, surrounded by passionate local fans. Not the view we expected, but a perfect introduction to island life.

Portas da Cidade in Ponta Delgada aglow at night

Back in Ponta Delgada, lively crowds—presumably tourists revealed by their loud exuberance—provided a vibrant energy to the city’s otherwise quiet streets. A friendly staff at O Galego then served us their traditional local flavors from their extensive menu of typical Azorean beef and seafood dishes.

Day Two: Furnas, Cozido, and Tea

Iron-rich mineral hot springs of Poça da Dona Beija in Furnas

The next morning, we made our way to Furnas, a geothermal wonderland where steam rises from the earth and the scent of minerals lingers in the air. We soaked in the warm, amber-colored waters of Poça da Dona Beija, letting the heat and iron work its magic under a canopy of tropical greenery.

Cozido das Furnas, the island’s volcano-cooked signature dish

Lunch was a feast of cozido, the island’s signature dish, slow-cooked underground by volcanic heat at Vale das Furnas. The combination of meats and vegetables, infused with earthy, smoky flavors, was a true taste of São Miguel’s unique landscape.

Overlooking the Atlantic at Chà Gorreana tea plantation

The afternoon took us north, where we visited the Chà Gorreana, Europe’s oldest and only tea estate. The rolling green fields, neatly lined with rows of tea bushes, felt almost otherworldly. We walked through the factory, learning about the production process before savoring a fresh cup with ocean views. A stop at Santa Iria Viewpoint gave us a breathtaking panorama of the rugged coastline, waves gently lapping against chalky cliffs below.

Scenic vista from Miradouro de Santa Iria

After a stroll through the parish of Matriz in Ribeira Grande with its ubiquitous black-and-white motifs, we returned to São Miguel, that night, diving into the local cuisine at dinner. The gracious host at Tasquina Vieira ushered us into their wine cave room under barrel-vaults of black volcanic rock and white plaster where fresh Azorean flavors took center stage.

The wine cave room at Tasquina Vieira in Ponta Delgada

Final Morning in Vila Franca do Campo

Before leaving for Porto, we spent a peaceful morning in Vila Franca do Campo, the island’s former capital, still black-and-white but splashed with color. The highlight? A stop at the original Do Morgado for their quintessential queijadas, small yet decadent pastries with a rich history, best enjoyed warm and fresh from a traditional bakery such as this.

After these sweets and coffee, we walked the rugged coastline, looking out at the Ilhéu de Vila Franca, a volcanic islet just offshore. The bougainvillea-lined path was a quiet, reflective way to end our time on São Miguel, taking in the beauty of the land before heading to the airport.

Along the rugged coastline, looking out at the islet, Ilhéu de Vila Franca

Reflections & Takeaways

São Miguel surprised us beyond what we’d seen on tourism pages. The island offered us the unexpected—unforgettable meals, a tea heritage, volcanic healing, warmly lit night strolls, and stunning coastline vistas. From foggy lakes to fiery underground stews, thermal baths to tea fields, our time here was a reminder that travel isn’t just about the places we plan to see, but the moments we don’t expect.

And next time? We’ll return to Sete Cidades on a clear day.

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